Weaving Guide

  • Poplin

    Cotton, wool, or silk — poplin is the classic and most widely used weave. Woven with a finer warp than weft, it offers a smooth and pleasant touch. Its tight, even structure ensures excellent quality, making poplin ideal for crafting elegant and comfortable shirts.

    See poplin shirts 

  • End-on-end

    End-on-end (fil-à-fil) is a variation of poplin that uses two threads of different colors — one dark, one light — in the weaving process. The result is a light, solid-colored shirt with a subtle, mottled effect. End-on-end weaving makes it particularly ideal for a fresh, summery look.

    View end-on-end shirts 

  • Oxford

    Oxford is a “grain” fabric with a slightly coarser weave than poplin. Typically, the weft yarn is colored while the warp remains white, giving the fabric its characteristic checkered appearance. Robust yet soft and easy to maintain, Oxford is ideal for casual shirts.

    See oxford shirts 

  • Twill

    Twill is distinguished by the diagonal lines created in its weave. Resistant and naturally crease-resistant, it is also the fabric used in the crafting of our denim shirts.

    See twill shirts 

  • Dobby

    Dobby is a textured weave created by crossing different threads, making it the quintessential patterned fabric. Its subtle effect adds depth and elegance to plain shirts.

    See dobby shirts 

  • Pinpoint

    Thinner than Oxford and poplin, pinpoint is both supple and durable. Its distinctive weave — where the weft thread passes over two warp threads and then the next two — gives it a refined texture. Ideal for a casual shirt that remains elegant and polished.

    View pinpoint shirts 

  • Denim

    Originally used for trousers and known as “toile de Nîmes,” denim has become a staple for casual shirts. Dyed with indigo — historically called the “blue of Genoa,” which inspired the term “jeans” — this twill weave fabric is exceptionally durable and develops a unique, faded character over time as the indigo gradually wears away.

    See denim shirts 

  • Chambray

    Chambray is a lightweight fabric woven in a plain weave, most often from cotton. Similar to end-on-end, it is made with a white or ecru weft and an indigo-dyed warp. Over time, the indigo develops a subtle patina, giving the fabric its casual, worn-in character.

    See chambray shirts 

  • Flannel Weave

    Historically made of wool, flannel
    is a so-called "brushed" fabric. Now mainly in cotton for shirts, it offers a fluffy appearance and a beautiful softness that are very popular in winter. On some models, we add cashmere for an even softer finish.

    See flannel shirts 

  • Selvedge

    A Japanese fabric with finished edges, traditionally reinforced with a colored selvedge. This finishing prevents fraying, making the fabric particularly durable. The selvedge is similar to classic denim.

    See Japanese fabric shirts 

  • Ripstop

    Often used for technical fabrics (paragliding, kites, etc.), ripstop is defined by a grid-like structure that resists snags and tears. Sourced from Japanese suppliers, it also gives our shirts a distinctive visual identity.

    See Japanese fabric shirts 

  • Linen

    Sourced from Normandy and Belgium, our linen is a 100% European fabric. Exceptional and eco-friendly — requiring neither fertilizers nor irrigation — it is breathable, thermoregulating, naturally durable and biodegradable, while remaining soft and silky against the skin.

    See linen shirts 

Weaving

First ingredient of the shirt, the fabric makes its quality. The construction of the fabric creates the visual aspect of the shirt, and determines its use according to the occasions or the seasons.

Always composed of a warp (threads located along the length of the weave) and a weft (threads located across the width), the fabrics are recognizable and are differentiated by different interlacings between these horizontal and vertical threads.

If an infinity of constructions exist, these are most often part of one of the three main types of weave: canvas (classic, in the shape of a checkerboard), twill (compact and oblique) and satin (shiny because the weft hardly appears).

  • Plain weave

    This is the simplest weave since the weft thread passes successively below the warp thread then above it continuously. This type of uniform weaving makes so-called "grain" fabrics, the two sides are identical, there is no back or place.

    Poplin is the best example of a plain weave fabric.

  • Satin Weave

    The satin weave as its name suggests produces fabrics with a satin effect. The weaving resembles twill since there is only one binding point on each thread except that here these points are scattered to avoid the oblique effect.

  • Twill Armor

    This armor is characterized by its oblique lines. This result is obtained thanks to the specific alternation of the threads; the weft thread passes under one or more warp threads then over it a greater number of warp threads, or vice versa. Depending on the weave, the twill can have a weft or warp effect.

    Twill fabrics are flexible and easily recognizable thanks to the diagonals formed by the weaving. Note that the back and the place of the fabric are different depending on the weft or warp effect.

The type of wire

There are two main types of thread: single and double twist.

Single thread is created by spinning the yarn on a machine, which is the most basic form but allows for the design of unique fabric patterns.

Double twist, on the other hand, involves twisting two single threads together twice. This technique makes the thread softer, stronger, and increases its diameter, resulting in a higher-quality fabric.

Most of our poplin collection is spun and double twisted for enhanced durability and comfort.

Titration

The count, or "thread count," refers to the quality of the fabric used in the shirt. It measures the fineness of the yarn based on the weight-to-length ratio. A higher count indicates a finer, lighter, and silkier thread, resulting in a more durable and high-quality fabric.